Tuning Checklist

Interior

  • I need a working seatbelt in the passenger seat
  • A working cigarette lighter for laptop power
  • Room for me and to have the ecu out with the NASA command center hooked up(aka Romulator & datalogging cable).
  • Seats need to be correctly bolted down, steering wheel needs to be secure

ECU

  • You must have an OBD1 ecu which has been socketed.  For hondata equiped ecus, you must have the datalogging port installed as well, same goes for freeware users who want to be able to datalog.
  • If you have a VTEC equiped car, you need a VTEC ecu (P28,P30,P72 or a converted Non-VTEC ecu (P06,P74,P75)
  • If you are OBD2a/OBD2b you must have a OBD2 to OBD1 jumper harness.
  • If you choose Hondata, S200 or S300 both can be tuned the same.  If you buy a used S200 ensure that it has the options you need, aka boost option if you are boosted, this can be checked at time of tuning, but if you have a s200 without the boost option, only part trottle tuning without hitting any boost can occur.
  • ECU harness must be free of crimp connectors or T's from former VAFC/SAFCs, gauges, etc etc.  These splices and T connectors are known to fail and cause random problems, soldier is your friend.
  • All SAFC/VAFC must be removed before tuning can start, I can remove, but this will increase the fee based on hourly rates.

Engine

  • Ignition system needs to be new (New plug wires(NGK Blue), cap(OEM), rotor(OEM) and plugs
    • NGK BKR7e for up to 400whp (Also good for high compression, big cam NA cars)
    • NGK R5672A-8 are good for over 500whp
    • NGK R5672A-9 and colder are for 700+whp cars or Turbo + Nitrous systems
  • Plug wires need to be in the correct order (3421 going from top right around counter clockwise)
  • You need a full tank of gas (93 octane if you want low boost pulls, race gas if you want to try for more)
  • Car needs to have good compression (can be tested at time of tuning if unsure) I will not tune a car with number off more than 15% from one cylinder to another
  • Car needs to have distributor set to 16* BTC (this can be done at time of tuning)
  • Cars must have an working coolant system, overheating cars will result in tuning to end immediately with the minimum charge still being charged.
  • If fuel injectors are reaching max duty cycle, I will end tuning session
    • 440s are good to 250whp
    • 550s are good to 350-400whp
    • 750s are good to 500+whp
    • 1000& up are good for over 500whp assuming you have the fuel pump & 1:1 regulator
  • If you want to push more out of your injectors, you need an adjustable 1:1 regulator, I recommend the Aeromotive products, as I've seen AEM/Holley/Paxton fail.  Without a regulator, i can't raise fuel pressure and duty cycle can wear out quickly
  • Basicly, I don't want to be left on the side of the road due to a engine laying down, so be smart and keep it maintained, fresh oil/filter, etc

Exterior

  • Four tires with good thread and four working brakes are expected
  • If we do a 4th gear pull, I don't want the car to shake violently when it comes time to slow down, car should be as safe enough for your mother not to fear for her life
  • Headlights and Brake Lights must be functioning properly

Disclaimer of Services

  • Anything can happen at anytime, therefore seendata cannot and will not be held responsible for any problems which are incurred during tuning sessions. 
  • All Customers must sign a Waiver before any tuning can start, which releases seendata from any responsibilities which may occur
  • This includes but is not limited to, Engines blowing up, tires blowing out, faulty injectors, failing fuel pump, misfires related to failing ignition components, etc etc
  • Also, All customers need to be aware that just because a car is tuned on one date, does not guarantee that in 6 months after someone had changed components which effect volumetric efficiency that the tune will still perform the same.  Simple items such as adding an exhaust to an open downpipe car, drastically change the tune and require retunes at the rates listed on the "Rates" page.

Crome Users

If you have a JDM VTEC Selenoid (aka no oil pressure sensor) you must do the following:
  • Splice the VTEC Pressure Switch & VTEC Selenoid Wires together.  You will cut the VTEC Pressure Switch(OBD1 D6) and splice it into the VTEC Selenoid wire(OBD1 A4).  This will prevent the VTEC Pressure Switch CEL and allow the car to go into VTEC normally.

Contact for Tuning